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How do I use the colors in textile finishing

In textile finishing, to color fabrics, using mainly the inorganic pigments, dyes synthetic substances.

For the color theory of Johannes Itten, we know that with mixtures of the three primary pigment colors (the so-called triad of yellow, red, blue, black) we can get all the colors of the universe. Now all those colors in the universe as part of textile finishing, can be applied in two ways:

a) for direct coating

b) impregnation foulard

Dyeing with pigment colours always involves subtraction of light, i.e. with the pigment colors you paint from clear to dark. Mix equal parts of the three primary pigment colors (yellow, red, blue) subtracts all the light and results in black.Now to cover, or better to paint, the surface of a fabric you can use two different techniques with each other:

1) Employ a mixture of colors opaque pigment that is able to cover with your own color everything that lies beneath her; This is the case when you work in resin.

2) Use a mixture of color transparent pigment that is able to color revealing the underlying tissue surface; This is the case when you work in resin for impregnation or foulard.

In the first case, opaque color, starting from a mixture of opaque pigment colours i.e. containing titanium and other white pigments. Darker tone, more opaque is the mixture; then it doesn't matter which color is the tissue surface coloring because however is covered by the color pigment. The easiest color to be used is black; the most difficult color to be white, in between there are all other colors; with nero you can operate with a single step, with white you must resort to multiple steps, depending on the background color of the fabric (the base, also known as support). It is the same procedure that applies when it comes to cover or whiten a wall; for Black just almost always a helping hand; to get a nice white you must give two or more hands!

In the second case, things get complicated and at the same time, it makes it easier. Everything depends on the background color of the fabric to finish. If the fabric is white (PPT-PPF-PPS) there are no problems because it is as if dipingessimo on a white sheet of paper from which you take white background radiation with the result of getting pure color tones, bright, clean. In fact, the colour formation in Subtractive synthesis starts from white because the Taj, the textile finisher does not paint with light but with color pigment. It is the same procedure that the painter, watercolorist, artist, apply when paint a subject on a blank canvas from picture.

Things get complicated a bit when the fabric to be finished is not white but is already stained. Things get complicated because the bottom of the fabric dye, when covered with transparent pigment colors, chromatically interacts and gives rise, with the color transparent pigment, a real mixture of colors and then the formation of new colours in accordance with the rules of color theory and contrasts of tone and color, gamma and contrasts of complementary and simultaneous contrasts. With this it is said that the worst situation, but knowing color theory and the combination of colours according to colour agreements, you can get amazing effects ranging from creation of otherwise impossible color tones, shimmering tone and gaudy. We conclude this chapter with some of the statements:

The color
in textile finishing
becomes protagonist.

The operator
in textile finishing
becomes an artist.

In the preparation of pigmented resin paste opaque or transparent type, the selection of the Binder is important. The higher the dry of Binder used, more saturated is the tone, the greater the strength of coloured finishing the washing, the greater the resistance to Stone Wash and vice versa.The lower the dry of a Binder, greater transparency and more textiles is the final hand and vice versa. F.T.R. has a series of finish suitable for use as binders, all of the same chemical type, but with different buckets. He grouped these F.T.R. special finish in a so-called "rose of Finish". The acrylic-based finish are solid to washing in water at 60° c. The finish polyurethane based solid are also washing ashore. The finish of the "rose of Finish" are ready to be resin, we cannot dilute with water, but you can mix with each other.





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